At the end of August [1906] I dwelt for some time at the light and air home on the Waidberg, at Hoengg, near Zurich. There, in the midst of a pine-forest, stands the large air-bathing establishment, consisting of whole colonies of so-called air-houses and air-huts, the latter being open in the front as well as in the caves under the roof. These dwellings are occupied by visitors, who very often spend their holidays with their wives and children in this veritable paradise. Other visitors to the air and sun-baths come here daily from the town, bringing books, writing materials or handiwork; while they may often be seen climbing the mountains with food and books, and pushing infant-carriages. In one of the corners, shut oft by means of a wooden partition, are the water and sun-baths, each with their separate compartments for ladies and gentlemen. Here, quite naked, lie, on little wooden benches, the inveterate sun-worshippers for hours, letting their bodies get roasted brown.
More interesting, and certainly no less healthy, are the means of enjoyment chosen by others, who seek the spacious lawns, playing games or engaging in sports. Monotonous wooden fences or buildings do not enclose these lawns, but only a low flourishing hedge, and behind that the forest. The passer-by outside is not prevented from contemplating this paradise through the hedge. He, perspiring in his thick clothes, is at liberty to observe for awhile this happy group of people living in a state of Nature. The entrance is not far away, and by paying a modest sum such envious observers will be admitted and welcomed to the ranks of those within.
The attire for ladies consists of a loose short empire-gown; that for men and children of loose knickers of openwork flax. A few wear straw hats and sandals, but the majority go bare-footed and bare-headed. It was interesting to observe the natural tact and fine feeling that prevailed, and to compare them with the constraint and hypocritical etiquette of false culture. I could not help thinking of the condition of things in Denmark, where men and women are not allowed to bathe together, even if they are related to each other.
The sports that attract the largest number of enthusiasts at the public air-baths, including nearly every one advanced in years of both sexes, are the various games of ball. I learnt several amusing games, in which an almost unlimited number of players could take part. As an alternative, walks can be taken in the forest around, or even farther afield. One day my wife and I, with some thirty others, made an expedition lasting several hours, to the Katzensee, where we enjoyed an excellent swim. The way led through several villages, but nobody stared at us, although we were clothed as above described. I was told that anybody could go about in this fashion through the whole canton of Zurich and not be molested in the slightest degree.
It was not always so, however. The founder of this light-and-air home, and the soul of the life and sport there, Herr Stern, formerly a country parson — he has the figure of a giant — a few years ago, while walking through the lonely mountain forests of the Bernese Oberland, was arrested because he had nothing on but a pair of bathing-drawers. Taking everything into consideration, this was hardly the correct uniform for a caretaker of souls; but he determined at that moment to lay aside his black coat in earnest, and has never had occasion to regret his decision.
One Sunday at his establishment he instituted a great festival of sport. It consisted of contests in running, wrestling, throwing the spear and discus, long and high jumpimg, horizontal and parallel bar exercises, and a number of ball games, the whole concluding with a distribution of prizes and a beauty competition, at which I, together with Professor Freitag, the
sculptor, acted as judges. There were several hundred contestants and half a thousand spectators present. The most remarkable feature of the gathering, however, was that the majority, even among the onlookers, wore air-bathing costumes. Even the judges, stewards, etc., wore only knickers; black coats, tall hats, long trailing dresses being conspicuous by their absence, and the sun shining everywhere on naked forms of colours ranging from milk-white to nut-brown. Here athletes were wrestling in the centre of a circle of interested spectators, and there a race was being run on naked feet, while at the same time some fifty men and women were striving one against the other at games of ball on the largest of the lawns. At that moment it occurred to me that I had never seen anything in my life like that approaching so nearly the gymnastic or athletic contests of the ancient Greeks (be it well understood I do not include the modern caricature of the ancients in Athens).
Jørgen Peter Müller, The Fresh-Air Book, London [1908], S. 70-74. Online
